My first trip to Panmunjom, which is not really Panmunjom per se, but the Joint Security Area (JSA) was on a cold, deary New Year’s Eve in 1996. The weather made me feel like I had stepped into some Cold War thriller.

When you step out on Conference Row and enter one of the Military Armistice Commission (MAC) buildings, sometimes one or two of the North Korean guards outside will look in one of the windows to see who is on the tour.

Waking Up in the Land of the Morning Calm.